Not Your Grandmother’s Port Wine

As I mentioned in my previous post, Big Red and I honeymooned in Portugal recently. Part of the reason Big Red chose Portugal is that he is a big fan of Port wine. Me, not so much. But after great effort, I can honestly say that I have a new found appreciation for it.

So what changed? I found out Port has a great back story, and that there are a variety of options and a number of new ways to drink it.

The History of Port

Port wine is named after the city of Porto, where the Douro River meets the Atlantic Ocean. The grapes used to make Port are cultivated in the Douro valley, and the finished product is shipped out of Porto.

Port came onto the world stage in 1678, when the British government embargoed trade with France. Suddenly, the Brits needed some type of alcoholic delight to replace French wine.  It just so happened that at that precise time, two Englishmen stumbled upon a Portuguese monastery, where they were treated to a local fortified brandy (aka: Port).

Their discovery brought Port to the attention of the British government, and in 1703, the British struck a deal. They’d give the Portuguese favorable rates on Portuguese wines if the Portuguese would pay similarly favorable rates for English textiles. The rest, as they say, is history. Thanks, France!

Here’s a tidbit to impress your friends:  there are no specific Port grapes. Port is a blended wine that mixes black and white grapes. There are 20 grapes officially sanctioned to be used in Port (although research shows that there are up to 10 dozen unofficial grapes used as well). How odd is that?

The Varieties of Port

 There are three main types of Port: ruby, white and tawny.

Ruby Ports are a deep red color. They’re typically are sold after three to six years of aging. They have a medium- to full-bodied taste that’s reminiscent of sweet cherries.

White Ports can be either dry or sweet. Unless the bottle specifically says “dry” assume your Port is sweet. Before I went to Portugal I didn’t even know there was a white Port. Once there, I found myself drinking a lot of it in cocktails. A shot of white Port plus tonic and lots of lime over ice is lovely.

Then you have your tawny Ports, which are a mix of red and white grapes. Young tawny Ports are labeled “fine tawny” and are lighter in taste than ruby Ports.

These are  your everyday Ports, if you will. If you want to get fancy, you need to up your game and drink either aged tawny or vintage Ports.

Aged tawny Ports are sold at 10, 20, 30 and over 40 years old. I am a member of the Developed tribe, and I preferred the 10s and 20s. Big Red, who is in the Complex tribe, was a fan of the 30s and 40s, but to me, those tasted like crushed dates in a glass. (Don’t know what tribe you are in? Make sure to take the quiz here.)

If you want to show your Port pretentiousness, get yourself a vintage Port. Each year, the best port producers assess the grapes and the Port that’s not yet bottled . If they feel they have an exceptional year, they’ll declare a vintage. Typically all of the other high-end producers will follow suit, so there is agreement across the industry on which years are vintages. Interestingly, they make the call early and the wines are bottled after only two years, so all of the maturation happens in the bottle. Vintage Ports do not reach their peak for at least 20 years, and they can last for decades. Some key vintage years are 1966, 1977, 1985, 1994 and 2007. For more info on vintage ports check out www.vintageport.biz.

Considering a Trip?
For me, discovering the story behind the popularization of Port among the British and learning about its varieties is reason enough to go to Portugal. Here’s what I’d do if I were you:

Head to Porto  and hit the Port museum. Have lunch at Graham’s Port House and go on the tour.

Next, rent a car and head to the Douro valley. If you want to go all out,  stay at Caso do Visconde de Chanceleiros, a lovely B&B where many winemakers and Port producers show up for dinner each night.

And definitely go to the Quinta do Panascal, where the grapes used for Fonseca products are grown.  If you’re lucky, you’ll catch the locals crushing grapes with their bare feet.  Quaff a big glass of port and it will all start to make sense.

If you’ve got questions, please leave them for me in the comments section below. I’d love to hear your Portugal wine and travel tips, too. Enjoy!