When pondering expensive wine vs. really expensive wine, I often wonder if price really matters. Does the juice in the really expensive bottle merit a significant premium? And what if the wine was made by the same winemaker? What role does the taster’s wine tribe (i.e.: their palate preference) play? These are the big questions that My Wine Tribe set out to investigate in a recent blind tasting.
We sampled four wines: two Chardonnays and two Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy wines. The Chardonnays were made by the same producer, as were the Cabs. While not a perfect match up, our choices were close enough to provide guidance in our quest to understand the role of price as an indicator of wine quality.
The Lineup
From France’s acclaimed Domaine Paul Pernot et Ses Fils, we sampled the 2015 Puligny Montrachet ($77) and the 2016 Bourgogne ($30), both Chardonnays with grapes grown a stone’s throw from each other. Given that the same winemaker created them one wouldn’t expect much of a difference, right?
Our red picks hailed from Napa Valley and the esteemed crew at Hall Wines. We tried the 2014 Ellie’s Cabernet Sauvignon ($85) and the 2015 Craigs, a Cabernet-dominant red blend ($30, distributed online only). The grapes came from the same vineyards and the wines were created by the same winemaker.
Now you purists out there may be saying, “But you’re comparing different vintages and different blends. No bueno.” Technically you’re right, but since the wines were created by the same winemakers with similar grapes in high quality vintages (2014, 2015 and 2016), we let it roll.
The Results
I hoped we would like the less expensive wines best. Really I did. But it didn’t turn out that way.
When it came to the French Chardonnays, the differences were vast. Every single taster, regardless of tribe, preferred the more expensive 2016 Puligny Montrachet. They enjoyed the light floral scents of honeysuckle and orange blossom and the tastes of peach crisp and almond with a touch of honey. This wine was lovely because it was nicely balanced: acidic enough to hold up to food but smooth enough to be enjoyable.
Not that the more affordable Bourgone was horrible. Tasters appreciated the herbaceous and grassy scents, but they didn’t dig the earthy, dirty tastes of rubbing alcohol. So that was that.
Which Cab for Cuties?
The Cabs were a different story. While all the tribes preferred the spendier Ellie’s Cabernet, the differences between it and the more modestly priced Craig’s were not so stark, especially for certain tribes.
If you’re in the Balanced Tribe, just go with the Ellie’s. If you are in the Developed or Complex tribe and feeling flush, you too should grab the Ellie’s. But if you’re Developed or Complex and looking to go easy on your wallet, try the Craig’s.
Why the difference between the tribes’ take on the wines? The Craig’s is more tannic and that was a turn off to the Balanced Tribe, who prefer a smoother wine. Balanced folks thought that the tannins produced too much of a drying sensation in their mouths and didn’t love the tastes of leather, pepper and ash. But for the Developed and Complex tribes, those same feelings and flavors were seen as positives.
Overall, the Ellie’s was the crowd favorite because its aromas of dark fruits, jammy tastes of black plums with hints of dark chocolate and sensuous mouthfeel. One taster commented that this was “what all Cabernets should aspire to be.”
Key Takeaways
After pondering further, I think the reason the two white wines were so different is that appellations (where the grapes were grown) really do matter. Even though one batch of Chardonnay was grown a stone’s throw from the other, they come from two distinct appellations, one of which–the Puligney–is deemed by the French authorities to be of higher quality. Seems right based on our tasting.
As for the Hall wines, I suspect that the differences were less pronounced because all the grapes came from the same estate. Overall though, my big “ah-ha” is that price, at least in this case, does matter.
So save your pennies, people.
Cheers!