The Innovators: The Power of Partnership

Here’s the latest in our occasional series on innovators in the world of wine. I am fascinated by folks who are doing things a bit differently. After all, My Wine Tribe is here to shake things up as well. Cheers to change!

Last year I went to an epic blind tasting that pitted some of Washington State’s Bordeaux blends against the best in the world. Of the 10 wines we sampled, my favorite was a 2012 Pirouette from Long Shadows Winery in Washington.

After enjoying all of that wine (no, I didn’t spit it out) it seemed totally appropriate to run up and introduce myself to Gilles Nicault, the winemaker from Long Shadows. Luckily, Gilles is crazy friendly. He even offered to meet up for an interview when I was next in Walla Walla. Here are some excerpts from our recent chat.

Q: How did you get from France, where you got your degree in viticulture and worked as a winemaker, to eastern Washington?

A: After school in France I wanted to do a one-year internship somewhere. I didn’t choose Washington, it chose me. In 1994, I flew into Seattle and took a Greyhound bus to Yakima and started interning at Staton Hills Winery. While in Yakima I met my future wife (Marie-Eve Gilla, now the head winemaker at Forgeron Cellars). She also was from France, and working at Covey Run Winery. After my internship I had to return to France for required military service, but I was in love with the Pacific Northwest, in love with the Washington wine industry and in love with Marie-Eve so I decided to come back (for more on Gilles and Marie-Eve check this out). When I returned, I worked at Woodward Canyon from 1996 to 2003. And when Allen Shoup established Long Shadows in 2003, I came over here to be the head winemaker.

Q: Tell me a little bit about the Long Shadows concept.

A: We create partnerships with the most recognized winemakers in the world by utilizing their vision and Washington grapes. We have created seven different labels (one for each winemaker plus my own) and the partners own an equity stake in the labels. An example is Michel Rolland, who is an amazing Bordeaux-based winemaker. His label is Pedestal. [See below for the partners and their Long Shadows labels.]

Q: What was the inspiration for this idea of partnership?

A: Robert Mondavi was a friend and mentor to Allen. Allen was inspired by the partnership that Mondavi had developed with Rothschild to successfully create the Opus One (SB note: Opus One is a highly regarded Bordeaux blend using California grapes. It was launched in 1979 and was America’s first ultra-premium wine.) When Allen was the President of Chateau St. Michelle, he created similar partnerships with Dr. Loosen in Germany to create Eroica Resling as well as the Antonori family to create Col Solare.

Q: So how does the process work?

A: In 2003-2005, we worked closely with each winemaker to source grapes for each of their wines and there are now agreed upon vineyards for each winemaker. As the resident winemaker, I speak to the other winemakers to understand their vision. I follow their directions to make the wine alongside our solid production team here in Walla Walla. I love my job because it is so exciting to be able to work with masters from all over the world!

Q: What happens if there is conflict or if the winemakers don’t like the final product?

A: We take care of conflicts before they happen. Not only do we work very closely with them but when it comes to blending they have carte blanche to ensure that the final blends are unique to their style and quality standards. Quantities may change but we have made wine each year for each partner. And while there is rarely any left over juice it doesn’t go to waste as I can move it to our other label, Nine Hats. [SB note: I have always thought Nine Hats  was a great wine at a good price and now I know why.]

Q: What wines are you most excited about?

A: At what time of the day? (Laughter.) I like Champagne and French wine, but I believe that as a winemaker you have to keep drinking wine from all over the world to know what is out there. We recently converted a room in our house into a wine cellar and our daughter will go into there, grab a random bottle, open it and pour us two glasses so we can have blind tastings. She then quizzes us on the grape, where it is from and the vintage. It’s almost impossible to know all of that!

Kids Say the Darnedest Things

After our talk, I met Gilles’ daughter and asked if her parents know the answers when she quizzes them. “Nope,” she replied with a laugh. Gotta love the honesty of children!

After the interview, Gilles gave Big Red and me a tour of Long Shadows. Check out My Wine Tribe’s Facebook page for more photos. I love what is happening at Long Shadows. Some of the most talented people in the wine world co-creating amazing wines based on the blending of old world styles with new world grapes. Cheers to the power of partnership!

By the way, as a Developed tribe member my favorite Long Shadows wine is the Pirouette. Big Red, who is in the Complex tribe, is a huge fan of Saggi. Not sure what tribe you are in? Take our quiz and find customized wine recommendations based on your palate.